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Restored to former glory
- and already "broken in":

"Restored to its former glory" is an expression usually associated with old tables and chairs, but it is very appropriate for re-furbished pipes. The briar of a pipe bought in 1965 may have been 70 to 80 years old at that time - it is now over 100 years since that briar plant took root somewhere in the Mediterranean. And, what's more, the pipe has been "broken in" so that it should smoke beautifully from the start of its new life.

Refurbished pipes for Sale
Let a Professional refurbish your pipes

Move your cursor over the image to see the transformation

These pipes come from many sources - an estate, a smoker who has had to give up, a pipe that just didn't suit the smoker. They have one thing in common, they are pipes from the leading brands - Dunhill, Charatan, Savinelli, Stanwell, Comoy, Larsen, quality Freeforms, GBD, etc; they have original mouthpieces and haven't been battered. When new, many of these refurbished pipes would have been in the Prestige Pipe class.
We have the pipe sterilised, cleaned and polished to restore its mature, dignified appearance - like a fine piece of antique furniture. Now that they have done service for one proud owner, they are ready to give pleasure to their next owner at a fraction of their current new price - well worth looking at!

Refurbished Pipes for Sale

Latest Selection available Mid July 2017

Prolong the life of your favourite briar with a little more care and attention.

Professional Refurbishment.

Take a look at those old discarded pipes (discoloured, sour, damaged) - some of them may easily justify the cost of a professional repair or refurbishment. The bowl will be reamed, cleaned and sweetened with "mead", and the whole pipe polished to restore its dignified appearance - only the dents will remain as a reminder of past pleasures.
As well as replacement mouthpieces, a hole in the bowl or a cracked shank can be repaired.
You won't be able to buy a new branded pipe for the R100 to R150 the professional job may cost you. Bring in your pipe for assessment.

D I Y Refurbishment

Here is a step-by-step procedure:

There are 4 distinct cleaning processes:
1. Removing the build-up of tars and juices which collect inside the shank and mouthpiece, and in the base of the bowl. Work over a tray or dish lined with paper. Remove the mouthpiece from the pipe. Use a bristle cleaner dipped in a solvent (eg Savinelli Pipe Clean, or some form of alcohol) to really scrub the inside of the shank and mouthpiece. (You could pour just a little solvent into the base of the bowl and work the bristle cleaner through from the slightly tilted shank.) Try not to splash the solvent on the outside of the bowl or mouthpiece. Be careful not to start a hole in the base of the bowl through excessive twisting - and for very bent pipes go easy round the bend in the mouthpiece.
You have finished when the pipe cleaner comes through clean.
2. Keeping the carbon layer under control. When necessary, ream the carbon layer inside the bowl to an even thickness of about 1.5mm (R1 coin) - the T-shaped reamer from Savinelli or the precise, high-tech Senior reamer will do the job comfortably. Wipe the inside of the bowl with a little of the solvent.
3. Polishing the vulcanite mouthpiece to remove the bitter taste. Remove the oxidation from the mouthpiece with a mild abrasive (eg Savinelli Stem Polish or Jeweller's Rouge). This might require vigorous and lengthy rubbing (a whole TV programme). If very dull and green, a buffing wheel is a big help - remove the mouthpiece to prevent accidental breakage. Take care not to buff too hard on one spot - the vulcanite may burn. If the logo is stamped on the mouthpiece it will possibly disappear.
(A recent comment from a customer was that a buffing wheel is necessary when using "jeweller's rouge" but that he found a good hand rub sufficient when using Savinelli Stem Polish regularly.)
Watchpoint - water based cleaners or abrasives (eg Handy Andy, Vim) or alcohols (eg Meths, benzine) may add to the discolouration of the outside of the mouthpiece - extra polishing will be necessary.
4. Beauty treatment for the outside of the briar bowl. Polish the outside of the bowl with a wax polish (eg Savinelli Bowl Polish) and a clean cloth. Again a buffing wheel can help - remember to remove the mouthpiece before starting.
(Corncobs shouldn't need a polish, but a beechwood will appreciate it once the varnish has worn off.)

Finally, leave the pipe to stand bowl down for at least 24 hours before smoking.

NB Read about cleaning your Meerschaum - a very different process.

Prevention is better than Cure!
1. Don't oversmoke a pipe (especially your favourite) - it will become saturated and turn "sour".
Do rotate your pipes to allow each to dry out properly.
2. Do polish the mouthpiece regularly, don't let the oxidation get the upper hand.
3. Do allow the carbon layer to build in your new pipe - right to the bottom of the bowl - and then keep it reamed to about 1.5mm thickness to prevent cracking.
4. If yours is a filter pipe - do use the filter or use the adapter. Don't smoke without one of them, even once, it can lead to an ill-fitting mouthpiece through a swollen shank. This is almost impossible to rectify.
5. To prevent breakage, do hold close to the join when removing the mouthpiece from the bowl, and don't remove the mouthpiece until the pipe is cool.
6. Don't use a sharp pointed instrument to clean out the bowl - you may drill a hole in the bottom.
7. Do hold your pipe by the bowl (not the stem) when "tapping out" the ash; and don't knock it against a hard surface - you may break the shank or mouthpiece or crack the bowl. Fit a "cork knocker" to a handy ashtray.
The general principle to bear in mind is that the cleaner and drier you keep your pipe, the more enjoyable it will be to smoke - and the longer it will continue to give pleasure.

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